Baking coaxes the cheese into its most generous form, spoonable and fragrant. The fig leaves lend a subtle fragrance, while the pickled figs bring brightness and bite. In this recipe, we use Long Paddock’s Driftwood. This bark-belted soft cheese from Castlemaine has a delicate rind and a soft, lactic centre that turns beautifully molten when warmed.

A final splash of Cavedoni Saba (a syrupy, sweet quince-based vincotto) ties it all together.

Serves 4 to share as a starter, dessert or afternoon snack

For the pickled figs
400g figs, washed then quartered
250ml white wine vinegar
250ml sherry vinegar
250g caster sugar
2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted
8 allspice berries
6 white peppercorn
3 bay leaves
8 sprigs of thyme

Fig Leaf Wrapped Driftwood
1 whole small Long Paddock Driftwood cheese (180g)
2 large fig leaves
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced 
1 sprig thyme, leaves picked 
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt 
Black pepper, freshly ground 
Cotton twine for tying 
Cavedoni Saba (a few generous splashes)
A toasted baguette for serving

Place the quartered figs in a bowl. Combine all remaining pickling ingredients in a small pot, then heat gently and simmer until the sugar has dissolved completely.

Pour the hot pickling liquid over the figs, and allow to steep. This should be for at least 20 minutes, but they can be pickled overnight too.

Preheat a fan-forced oven to 180C. Place the Driftwood in the centre of a fig leaf, then top with the sliced garlic and thyme leaves. Season with salt, pepper, and a generous lashing of good-quality extra-virgin olive oil.

Bring the edges of the leaf up and around the cheese then place the second leaf over the top, wrapping it around and under the cheese. Take care to ensure the cheese is completely encased, then firmly tie with the twine so the leaves stay put.  

Place into an oven dish and bake the cheese parcel for approximately 10 minutes – the fig leaves will be fragrant and slightly brittle when done. Remove from the oven, cut the twine and remove the top fig leaf. The Driftwood will be gloriously gooey without running out of the fig leaf package.

Transfer to a serving plate, then arrange the pickled figs on and around the cheese. Add a generous splash of the Saba and an extra drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve with toasted pieces of baguette on the side for dipping into the cheese while it’s still warm.